GeneralĬo-extruded, dual wall heat shrink tubing with a thermoplastic adhesive inner wall These multiple wire connectors are ideal for joining 1 wire to 2 wires, or joining up to 4 wires at a time. The inner crimp barrel also has color coded stripes to indicate the wire gauge as well as crimp indicators to ensure that you get a perfect crimp every time. Hydralink multiple wire connectors have a clear tubing so wire terminations can be easily inspected and are color coded with colored dashes to they can be easily identified. Unlike other brands, the crimp terminal has a uniform copper wall to make crimping on the smaller diameter wiring easier.Wire stop in butt connector prevents you from over inserting the wires.Small imprints called crimp indicators are on the crimp terminals to indicate where the barrel should be crimped for a perfect termination every time.Closed end connectors are ideal for use in applications where wire nuts are used, but require protection from environmental factors.Crimp barrel has a window for visual inspection so you can view whether or not your wire is inserted correctly.Colored dashes on the tubing indicate the wire AWG for the connector for easy identification.Color stripes on the ends of the terminal indicate which crimp die to use to take the guesswork out of choosing a die.Closed end connectors are crimped and then sealed for protection against corrosion and vibration.There are even more bad ways, that are practiced all the time and sworn by, probably without ill effect in most cases. I think that the only 'right' way to do what you're talking about, is probably to use a bus bar, though there are lots of 'good' ways posted here. Then you'd solder the joint, insulate, and use proper vibration and abrasion mitigation methods as needed. Poke the stripped end of your new wire into the hole and wrap it around, alternating the wrap from one side of your new wire to the other. Then with a pick tool separate the strands in the middle. I'm guessing you're doing aftermarket electronics? The industry standard and MECP recommended practice is to strip away some insulation from the middle of your 'source' wire, without cutting it. The 2-into-1 heat shrink connectors are also expensive, and only work if all 3 wire ends are the same gauge. The adapters have the limitation that they're designed for non-permanent connections, and in the case of the bullet style, they're expensive. I've used these insulated 3 way bullet connector adapters and these non-insulated 3 way. These have a uniform wall thickness unlike most step-down connectors, and are lined with a special heat melt adhesive that is more viscous, allowing it to flow better between wires, where normal heat melt adhesive would leave a gap. Other than the X&Y connectors listed, which I find to be oddly made and not useful, I've only seen one connector actually designed for this. I frequently consult the AWG charts when doing things like this, if you find the actual cross-sectional area for a given wire gauge, you can double it and use a connector for the wire gauge that corresponds. If the doubling up method is indeed recommended by Mack, that lends some legitimacy to my own line of thinking on this.

There's some good advice given, but this is actually a difficult question, I'm not sure the 'right way' exists.

I don't like using connectors at all if I can avoid it reasonably, but that's not always realistically possible. I've also doubled the wire over and crimped into a large connection like mentioned above and don't recall having any issues, and I've seen a few on vehicles done by other people and they were doing their job. Takes a bit more thought than just chopping them all off, wrapping them together and soldering, but not a lot more, and it looks way better. Solder that, then slide the heat shrink tube up over it and shrink it down. Strip off about 2, 2 1/2 inches or so off the end of this wire and wrap it around the section you stripped off the first wire. Then measure out another piece of wire from the stripped area to the second load and add a little extra. Slide a piece of heat shrink tubing down the wire so its behind the stripped section. Then go back to where I need the splice and strip the insulation off about a 1 inch section (give or take depending on wire gauge). You are better off just wrapping the wires together and taping them than using those.īut if I understand your situation correctly, I would measure out a single wire all the way from the source to one load. I've had to replace a lot of them over the years. The 'T' type taps suck - they are just a bad connection waiting to happen. Assuming you are using the correct gauge of wiring, or a heavier wire than you need, then I've found soldering to be the best method.

3 wire butt splice